Wine Thought of the Day

Broadbentism: 1988 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

"This was at the Hollywood Wine Society's Mouton Seminar, March 1998, followed four months later by the Penning-Rowsells' 10-year first growth tasting at which it showed off its richness of bouquet and flavor. Yet still youthfull looking, with rich, toasty nose which then reminded me of warm tea and, after an hour sodden wholemeal biscuits." ***(*) - MB

Montefalco from Umbria is Montefantastico!

Vino Girl never really thinks of drinking red wine from Umbria, the region almost smack dab in the middle of the boot, because the white wine Orvieto is really all that comes to mind. However, the Italian region cocooned by Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzi and Lazio (Rome) produces some exceptional wines worthy of consideration.

The most notable reds come from the DOCG Montefalco Sagrantino and the DOC Montefalco. Montefalco Sagrantino is made from the Sagrantino grape, one of Italy’s many indigenous and inscrutable grape varietals. Montefalco Rosso can include Sangiovese, Sagrantino and up to 15% of other varieties. Sagrantino is a thick-skinned grape with serious tannins that produces rich, robust reds. It is also used to make a sweet “passito” from partially dried grapes which has been consumed by Umbrians in times of celebration for centuries.

I drank the 2000 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva with friends at dinner last night and it was memorable and delicious. Paolo Bea, the 73-year old powerhouse behind the estate, is very traditional and uses only organic methods and employs no fining or filtration. The 2000 vintage is 60% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 25% Montepulicano and it has intense aromas of dark fruits, spice and licorice. The mouthfeel is super velvety and full-bodied but with enough acidity to keep it alive in your mouth. I found it to be a very well-rounded wine (the others seemed to enjoy it as well) that reminded me of a really well-made Super Tuscan with less fat and more acid. It was great with cheese and, as it turns out, risotto.

2000 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva - $60 retail. Salute!

2004 White Bordeaux

Maybe the day the temperature has dropped well below freezing in New York City is not the perfect day to bring up white Bordeaux but what the heck. White Bordeaux seems to get short shrift in the wine world these days and I must admit I can see why.

Many of the bottles of white Bordeaux that grace the shelves of retail stores (and you won’t find many) are light wines lacking personality. On the whole, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand has more character than Sauvignon Blanc from Bordeaux. Add in Semillon, the other white grape of Bordeaux that is more often than not blended with Sauvignon Blanc, and frequently you get a flat wine that is missing the refreshing acidity that gives a white wine zip and keeps you coming back for more.

After spending most of our time at a recent tasting of 2004 Bordeaux on the all-important reds, we took a little side trip over to the white wines of the Pessac-Léognan region. Two whites stood out and, although they do not come cheap, they have the charm and integrity to make you believe in white Bordeaux.

The first stand-out was the 2004 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc. This estate is actually more renowned for its white than for its red and for good reason. Domaine de Chevalier produces a white that is elegant and refreshing but with good weight & richness, minerality and flavor. The wine is still in futures at most retailers but you can purchase it for approximately $50.

The other big hit with us was the 2004 Chateau Smith Haut Lafite Blanc, also from Pessac-Léognan. Smith Haut Lafite makes about double the number of cases of white (~2,500) than Domaine de Chevalier and the wine can be purchased for future arrival for about $40. The 2004 has good depth and expresses the citrus flavors typical of Sauvignon Blanc along with the perfume and honey of Semillon.

Bundle up and try something new this weekend — even if it means cracking open a white wine and huddling by the fire.

Pinotage Pedicure - Coming to a Location Near You

Soak Up The Good Stuff!

For all of you wine producers out there wondering what to do with the seeds, husks and vine leaves leftover during the winemaking process, deliberate no more! Delluva (Italian for “of the grape") Vinotherapy Spa has just opened in Manhattan. The spa specializes in “first class” skin care products and treatments derived from the by-products of grapes.

The concept of using wine grapes in spa treatments started in France (those French think of everything) and is now making its way around the world. The secret ingredient found in Vitus Vinifera is polyphenols which have been proven to fight ageing. Delluva Vinotherapy Spa has a trademarked product called TheraVINE™ which uses ingredients mainly from the South African Pinotage varietal. (Quite honestly, I would rather have Pinotage smeared on my face than be forced to drink it but I digress.)

The treatments, cleverly named using wine lexicon, include things like The Signature Blend Massage, The Smooth Finish (waxing, in case you needed some help figuring that one out), The Bottle, The Split, and Perfect Pairings. There is also the TheraVine™ Barrel Bath where you soak in grape extracts for nearly an hour. Who knew you could turn your wine cellar into a day spa during a glut? And just think what youthful feet you would have if you eliminated all that technology and stomped the grapes yourself?! Something to think about.

Alas, I did not see anywhere on the website where it said you could relax with a glass of fine Bordeaux after your treatment. I for one think it’s only fair to utilize the Vitus Vinifera grape as nature intended — as a restorative libation.

Valentine's Day is coming up people so call for reservations now. Oh, and if you are thinking of donating your grape by-products to Delluva remember, this is a first class operation -- only world class grapes need apply.

Broadbentism: 1989 Leoville Barton

"Usually there is a considerable difference in content and style between the two 2eme cru St. Juliens, the Barton, very correct, very English (despite its Irish ancestry) and the Gruaud noted above, more French: the gentleman versus the well-endowed young matron, except that in 1989 the stiff upper lip relaxes. A somewhat fleshier and riper wine than usual, with extra dimensions, body, fruit, texture, length of course. Several notes from cradle to the age of consent. ****(*)" - MB

Judgment of Paris: The Movie

Well as we move past Sideways, winemonkey (yes I'm back) says let's look at the next big wine movie. No, we're not talking "A Good Year" or even a Sideways sequel, no movie loving wine fans or wine loving movie fans, we are talking about The-Yet-To-Be-Named Judgment of Paris movie.

For those winos that are still in the dark, here is the quick one-two. In 1976 Steven Spurrier (now a Decanter editor), sets up a tasting of Bordeaux and California wines. Elitist French judges pick good 'ole CA over hometown fave BDX. Hilarity ensues. Journalist-in-attendance George Taber writes a book over the whole affair. Book becomes hit. Hollywood buys rights. Movie in works. Phew!

We have recently found out that vintner and screen writer, Robert Mark Kamen of the eponymous Sonoma winery Kamen, is writing the would-be screen play for this fanciful folly of French foolishness.

It has also been somewhat widely reported that the likes of Jude Law or Hugh Grant have been bandied about to play Spurrier and that Keanu Reeves is being considered for the part of famed Napa vintner Mike Grgich (the man behind the winning 1973 Chardonnay for Chateau Montelena). Now this winemonkey is wondering who might play the rest of the cast of characters and how are they going to insert the required amount of sex and violence into the movie? Let’s hope it’s not another actor on waitress scene as I’ve had my fill elsewhere.

Cheers!

Decoding Decanting

[Taken from the Ladies Who Launch Weekly Wine Tip] Although you may want to think of it as a good excuse to showcase that fabulous Simon Pearce carafe, the idea behind decanting is actually two-fold. It is intended to expose the wine to air, leave the wine’s sediment behind in the bottle, or possibly both. This is a fairly simple concept on the surface —the confusion comes in when you take into account that different wines require (or don’t require) decanting for various reasons. Since wine bottles don’t come with decanting instructions on the label, we thought it would be useful to let you in on the general rules for decoding decanting.

Given there are typically two reasons for decanting there are also two basic styles of decanting. For lack of more eloquent terminology these styles are known as the ‘hard decant’ and the ‘soft decant’. Many people are familiar with the soft decant, but it is important to understand the hard decant as you will probably use it more often. The hard decant is most often used for big, young red wines to open up the aromas and flavors. This type of decanting requires little vigilance as all you need to do is open the bottle and pour it down the mouth of the decanter exposing the wine to the maximum amount of air on its way down. There is no need to be gentle because when all the wine has been transferred to the decanter you are going to shake the wine vigorously around the bowl of the decanter to release the carbon dioxide trapped in the wine and to expose it to more oxygen. Some sommeliers will even shake the bottle vigorously before turning it upside down into the decanter. Let the wine sit for about 15 minutes and the flavors should be enhanced from the exposure to air. You may want to sneak a taste of the wine before decanting it so that you can experience the effect firsthand.

The soft decant is ideal for older red wines that contain sediment, the deposit that accumulates in the bottle during the ageing process. The sediment is not harmful — in fact Madame Leroy of the famed Domaine Leroy in Burgundy proclaims the sediment the best part and professes to keep it for herself. Most people find it unpleasant to drink, however, and that is where the soft decant comes in. This requires some preparation, good lighting and a steady hand. First, let the bottle stand upright for at least an hour (better to have it stand for an entire day or two) to let the sediment drop to the bottom of the bottle. After this has happened, open the bottle, turn it sideways and pour the wine slowly into the decanter while watching the neck of the bottle carefully for sediment. Once the sediment has been successfully separated from the wine, give the wine a couple of minutes to settle in the decanter before pouring into glasses and enjoying.

There are some wines you don’t want to decant at all. Very old, fragile wines (such as old Red Burgundy which is made from the Pinot Nor grape) that are holding on to their fruit for dear life will only fall apart more quickly if exposed to air. If you have any specific questions about decanting, feel free to comment and we'll get back to you.

Broadbentism: 1955 Cheval Blanc

"But some chateau-bottle variations, the following noted in 1978: a deep, brick red double magnum, medium sweetness, soft, lovely, and a brown-rimmed bottle with a 'calm' cedar-caramel nose, both colour and caramel anticipating a touch of decay and strange descriptions such as 'velvety and rusty nails' and 'too smooth, too round, too rotten'! The latter must have been due to the hot storage. T0 demonstrate that the latter was an aberration, a fabulous bottle in its fortieth year at Ziegler's tasting. At best *****" - MB

Columbian Culture: A Digression

As much as wine and food and culture go together, I thought I would let you in on a wonderful experience I had this weekend getting to know the Columbian culture and Columbian people (and I don’t mean those University students on the Upper West Side.) Four of us were invited to Queens this Saturday to experience some traditional Columbian food and hospitality. We were all a little trepidacious about the whole thing given we didn’t know our hosts exceedingly well and our Spanish is shabby at best. We decided to go nonetheless, in the name of a real NYC adventure.

We arrived at our hosts’ home to open arms and the most generous, welcoming group of people I have perhaps ever had the pleasure of meeting. Although we did not understand each other all of the time, it was sufficient to smile politely when a meaning or two was lost amongst the chatter. Upon entering their home, we were ushered into the tiny kitchen to snack on delicious homemade empanadas served with equally delicious homemade salsa. As far as I can tell wine is not a huge part of Columbian culture, however, they immediately poured us each a glass of nice white wine to wash down our first course. The feast continued with the biggest Tamales I have ever laid my eyes on. Columbian Tamales are made with corn dough (which, come to find out, our hosts made from scratch with a hand crank!) and these were stuffed with sausage, chicken, green olives, carrots, chic peas and various spices — sort of like paella all wrapped up in a plantain leaf. They take eight or nine hours to make and were made especially for us, with love. I immediately felt at home when we were told we should finish everything if we wanted an invitation to come back, which brought back memories of Sunday dinners with my Italian grandmother.

In addition to the gigantic Tamales, there were plantain chips served with some of the best guacamole I have ever had. The guys polished off the wonderful Tamales as instructed and the women did their best, mostly because we were not sure if there was another course to come (a detail that was lost in translation.) There was indeed another, non-traditional Tamale on the menu which looked especially tasty. Thankfully they offered — we accepted gratiously — to wrap them up for us to enjoy another day. Next there was dessert along with further warm conversation and getting to know one another. Dessert was followed by coffee and a shot of anise-flavored liqueur made from sugar cane (i.e. firewater) that is said to aid in digestion.

We said our goodbyes and entered the subway feeling — in addition to very, very full — inspired by these genuine and welcoming people who embrace their culture and embraced us like we were family that day. Although we tend to think of Columbia as the country that suffers from Civil War, armed groups, drug cartels and widespread poverty (which it does) we forget that there is also a Columbia rich in tradition, natural resources, elegant port towns and, most of all, pride. Salud!

The Half Bottle Trick

[From the Ladies Who Launch weekly lifestyle tip]

Ever wondered what to do with that perfectly good wine that is leftover in the bottle? Besides drinking it yourself (perhaps you did a little too much of that over the holidays?) we recommend utilizing the ‘half bottle trick.’ You don’t need to purchase fancy vacuum sealers or cans of inert gas to keep your wine fresh; all you really need is a few clean, empty half bottles of wine and a few old corks — or a few of those fancy cork stoppers if have always wondered what to do with them.

If you buy a full bottle of wine with the intention of only drinking half of it yourself with dinner, immediately pour about half of the bottle’s contents into your clean half bottle container. Leave some room at the top of the bottle and have an old cork ready to top it off. Give the cork a quick sniff to rule out mustiness or any off odors and insert the clean side of the cork (the one with no wine stains on it) into the bottle. Viola! You now have a good half bottle for your next evening’s meal.

If you are not sure how much of the full bottle you will be drinking, just have the clean half bottle and cork ready so you can store it as soon as you are done. You can use a simple kitchen funnel to transfer the wine from the large bottle to the half bottle. Storing leftover wine in a half bottle works better than simply recorking the full bottle because it minimizes the amount of air that can get to the wine and spoil it. Store the half bottle on the counter (for red wine) away from any heat sources and in the refrigerator (for white wine.) Now you never have to waste a drop of the “good stuff” ever again!

Cheers and happy leftovers.

Sideways: will it ever end?

I just read that Sideways (you know that little wine movie that worships Pinot Noir and disses Merlot) has spun off an actual wine bar. I know it won an Academy Award and all but will we ever hear the end of it? The bar, called Tastes of the Valleys, a SIDEWAYS wine bar, is slated to open later this month in Santa Barbara County. In addition to wines featured in the movie, patrons can check out the map to see where the Sideways characters actually spent their time in town. To that Vino Girl says, "get a life!".

The group behind the Santa Barbara bar hopes that this location will be successful enough to lend itself to additional SIDEWAYS wine bars. One can only hope.

Tastes of the Valleys, a SIDEWAYS wine bar
1672 Mission Drive
Solvang
Hours - 11:00 A.M. to 8:00 P.M. ( I believe Miles was out later than that)
Phone: (877) 622-9463

Say "Txakoli"!

It's been awhile since you have heard from us here at drink the good stuff and for that we apologize. Trying to get the first two issues of The Bon Vivant Wine Guide up and running in the midst of all the holiday hoopla proved to be a considerable undertaking for winemonkey and vino girl. Not that we didn't take a break for a good glass of wine or two every once in awhile, which brings me to the first post of the New Year.

I have noticed a little known Spanish wine popping up on wine lists around town lately. The wine is called Txakoli (pronounced chac-o-lee) and it is a slightly sparkling wine from the Basque country in Spain. The Basque country is probably better known, unfortunately, for separatists and the ETA than for wine but for some reason Txakoli seems to be catching on here in NYC.

Txakoli is produced from indigenous grapes, Hondarribi Zuri and Munemahatsa or Folle blanche. A traditional product of the Basque country, the wine fell off the radar in the 19th century until a local Basque association, in the 80's, formed a group to bring the wine back to life.

The wine is very high in acidity, which accounts for its slight sparkle, and low in alcohol. The Basque usually drink it in small glasses, as opposed to wine glasses, and serve it with Spanish tapas. The wine is customarily poured in ceremonious fashion with the bottle held high above the glass causing something of a waterfall of wine. This fancy effect is said to make the flavors of the wine burst out instantaneously (hmmmm). In any case, it takes a dexterous bartender to pull this off so don't expect this type of treatment except for in the most traditional of Spanish wine bars.

I have enjoyed some glasses of Txakoli (nothing to ponder but a nice refreshing starter) and others I found to be a little cloudy and odd because of the ever so slight sparkle. Nevertheless it is a fun wine -- and something different -- with fresh, tangy fruit and floral flavors. It does not come as cheap as you might expect for an unfussy little wine but this is due to the fact that so little is currently imported. You can find it, as mentioned, on wine by the glass lists around town as well as at some local retailers. Here in New York it is available at Appellation Wine & Spirits on 10th Ave. near 20th street for just under $20. Salud!

Happy 2007!