Saturday, May 24, 2008

Give Charbono A Chance

Charbono (pronounced Shar-BOE-noe) is not the new incarnation of Sonny and Cher or a steakhouse owned by the lead singer of U2. It is a grape grown mostly in California that was once thought to be related to Italy’s Dolcetto grape as well as mistaken for Italy’s Barbera grape. You can see where these errors came from as some of the examples of Charbono sampled recently by Winemonkey and I tasted like a cross between Barbera and Dolcetto with some distinct traces of Spanish Rioja thrown in. Can you even wrap your head around that depiction?

The grape is grown on just about 85 acres of land worldwide and most of those acres are on California’s North Coast in the Napa Valley. The vines tend to be old, as advanced as 70-80 years, and the Charbono grape itself is notoriously difficult to tame. You really need to love and respect this grape to take it on --and the producers we met at a recent luncheon of the Wine Media Guild in New York proved just that.

We were lucky enough to taste Charbono from Pacific Star, On the Edge (owned by the Calistoga-born, famed and now-retired NFL Coach Dick Vermeil), Oakstone, Heitz, Robert Foley, Joseph Laurence, Duxoup, August Briggs, Summers Estate, Turley, Tofanelli, Schrader, Chameleon Cellars, Fortino Vineyard and Boeger Vineayrds. This bunch pretty much covers all of the California wineries embracing the grape to date. We could sense their passion for this enigmatic grape as they spoke about their wines (that is when we were not being blinded and awed by Vermeil’s ginormous Super Bowl Ring.)

Generally speaking the grape is high in acid and a bit rustic, but with much more depth and drinkability than we had imagined. Charbono takes to wood easily, so the judicious use of oak we see used with many other California red grapes needs to be restrained for the best results. Although the fruits we tasted in the wines were all over the map, dark berries seemed to predominate, especially blueberry, along with dark plum. We found some pretty scents of roses emanating from this otherwise dark and mysterious wine.

The wines went surprising well with the progression of foods we were served at the wonderful Felidia restaurant in Midtown Manhattan which included a salad, a risotto, and braised beef course. My guess is that if you try the right Charbono with a rustic, hearty meat course you will be duly impressed.

Our personal favorites on the day were the Charbonos and blends (Charbono/Barbera) from Pacific Star Winery (note that this style is more reminiscent of Bordeaux), the Rose and Estate Lemley Ranch Red from Oakstone Cellars, and the Robert Foley Vineyards Charbono. These wines are difficult, if not impossible, to find at retail but of the producers Robert Foley is the most widely distributed.

Not to worry, we will be carrying some examples of this unique grape at California Wine Merchants when the store opens in Lower Manhattan in (fingers crossed people!) August 2008. Cheers!

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Robert Mondavi Dead at 94

Robert Mondavi seen here in 1966 blessing the grapes. And so it began...

It's a sad day for the wine world. Below is the entire official press release. Anything less would have been an injustice to a man who introduced many of us to the world of fine wine.


FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
May 16, 2008
ROBERT G. MONDAVI DIES AT 94
FATHER AND FOUNDER OF THE AMERICAN FINE WINE INDUSTRY

Oakville, Calif.—Robert Mondavi of Napa Valley, the founder of the modern US fine wine industry and a global symbol of American wine and food, died today. He was 94. The Mondavi family stated that the legendary vintner died peacefully at his home in Napa Valley.

Robert Mondavi changed the landscape of the US wine industry when he founded his eponymous winery in 1966, inspired by his belief that he could produce world-class wines in Napa Valley. Since that time, the Robert Mondavi Winery has become known as one of the world's leading innovators, producers and marketers of fine wine, firmly establishing America’s rightful place on the world wine stage.
Born in Virginia, Minnesota, to parents who emigrated from Sassoferrato in the Marche region of Italy, Robert was greatly influenced by Old World traditions of the pleasures of wine and food. The family moved to Lodi, California, during Prohibition and he attended public schools there.

A 1936 graduate of Stanford with a degree in economics and business administration, Robert understood that marketing was as critical as winemaking expertise in achieving success in the wine industry. He joined his father at Sunnyhill Winery in St. Helena, a bulk wine producer. After convincing his father to purchase the Charles Krug Winery there, he upgraded the technology, determined to raise quality—a commitment which never faltered. He began to offer public tours and tastings in the 1950s, something unheard of in Napa Valley, and not even done in the established wineries of France.

In 1966, at age 53, he established the Robert Mondavi Winery, the first major winery built in Napa Valley since the 1933 Repeal of Prohibition. Robert hired architectural designer Cliff May for his fledgling winery, which he intended as an enduring landmark to California history, reflecting this in its iconic, mission-style architecture. Using an architect was already enough to raise the eyebrows of locals, but to their amazement, Robert also included public spaces for education and entertainment, which completely bewildered his neighbors.

At his winery, Robert pioneered many fine winemaking techniques in California, including cold fermentation, stainless steel tanks and the use of French oak barrels. As a marketing leader, he initiated blind tastings of Napa Valley wines with other world-class wines, allowing consumers and the trade to evaluate wine quality and value. By the l970s, Robert Mondavi wines were recognized for their quality internationally, and California’s fine wine industry benefited from Robert’s pioneering work in the export market.

Dedicated to fostering a wine culture in America, Robert also expanded his educational tours and wine tastings. Under his tutelage, and with his wife Margrit, for four decades the winery has celebrated the pleasures of wine, food and the arts; and provided creative settings for jazz and classical concerts, art exhibits and comprehensive cultural and culinary programs including the Great Chefs program, which has featured such luminaries as Julia Child, Paul Bocuse, Alice Waters and Joel Robuchon.

Never one to rest on his laurels, in l979, Robert joined forces with Baron Philippe de Rothschild, creating the Opus One Winery in Oakville. An immediate international success, Opus One created a world sales record for California with a $24,000 case price at the first Napa Valley Wine Auction. He and his wife, Margrit, were among the founding members of that auction, which is now recognized as the major wine auction in the U.S.

Firmly committed to the everyday enjoyment of wine and food, Robert wanted to see a bottle of wine on every American table. To that end, in 1979 Robert bought a winemaking cooperative that he named Woodbridge, after a nearby town. Innovations at Woodbridge included the first value-priced US wines with barrel aging; traditional cork finishing; a gentle, direct-to-press method for white wines; the first US premium varietal wines with vintage dating; and the first winery to operate Quality Enhancement Teams with a "small lot" program, through which grapes are kept individual vineyard lots during fermentation.

Robert further expanded his horizons through international partnerships with the Frescobaldi family in Italy and Eduardo Chadwick of Viña Errazuríz in Chile.
During the late l980s, Robert launched the Mission Program to counteract anti-alcohol campaigns that were gathering force around the world. The Mission educated media, trade and consumers about the cultural and health benefits of moderate wine consumption. This program was the stimulus for CBS' "60 Minutes" program on wine and health, which changed America's view of wine.

In 1994, Robert introduced Robert Mondavi Private Selection, a line of high quality, affordable fine wines that reflect the distinctive vineyards of California’s Central and North Coast appellations.

In recent years, Robert was a major benefactor of cultural and educational institutions. COPIA: The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts, a world-class pioneering cultural center, opened in 2001. With a history of extraordinary contributions to California's wine industry, Robert and his wife made a substantial personal gift in 2001 to the University of California, Davis to establish the Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science and to name the campus' new Center for the Performing Arts, which opened in 2002. He also made significant gifts to the Oxbow School and the Cantor Center of the Arts at Stanford University.

An uncompromising perfectionist, Robert believed that if you wish to succeed, "...you must listen to yourself, to your own heart, and have the courage to go your own way." These and other lessons from his life are the subject of his autobiography, "Harvests of Joy," published in l998 by Harcourt, Brace & Company. He was honored by countless national and international institutions, including France's Legion of Honor (2005), the government of Italy and many U.S. institutions including being the first "Pioneer" inductee in the founding year of the Culinary Institute of America’s Vintners Hall of Fame in 2006. In August 2007, Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger announced Robert Mondavi’s induction into the California Hall of Fame at The California Museum for History, Women and the Arts.

Robert remained an active ambassador for the winery until his death.
While services will be private, a remembrance book will be available in Le Marche, the winery’s visitor center, and at the visitor center of Woodbridge winery in Lodi, CA for the next four weeks for anyone wishing to share a message or condolence. The books will be given to the Mondavi family.

In addition to his wife, Margrit Biever Mondavi, Robert Mondavi leaves three children, Michael, Marcia and Timothy; nine grandchildren; and his brother, Peter. In lieu of flowers, the family suggests donations to COPIA; the University of California at Davis; The Oxbow School; and Stanford University.

Richard Sands, chairman, Constellation Brands, Inc., remembers Robert Mondavi’s contributions. "Robert Mondavi was unique in a very special way. He had a vision about the potential for developing great California wines. Robert was a pioneer who acted on his vision and was both passionate and relentless in his pursuit of ever-better wines, especially from the Napa Valley. He championed the marriage of fine wine, excellent food, arts and culture, and relationships that enrich lives. He was an inspiration and he will be greatly missed. Robert’s passing leaves a void in the world of wine which can never be filled. Our hearts and our thoughts are with the Mondavi family."

Rob Sands, president and chief executive officer, Constellation Brands, Inc., adds "Robert’s longevity allowed him to influence generations of winemakers and wine consumers around the world. We are proud and privileged to have known the father of contemporary California wine, someone whose influence spans the globe and is timeless. His contributions to viticulture, viniculture and Constellation Brands are immeasurable. Robert’s desire, and his legacy, was to fill peoples’ wine glasses while filling their hearts and souls. I believe he succeeded on all counts. The Robert Mondavi Winery in the Napa Valley will serve as a lasting reminder of all which he stood for, and we will do our best to uphold Robert’s quest for perfection in wine. He served as chairman emeritus of The Robert Mondavi Corporation after it was acquired by Constellation Brands in December 2004."

Friday, May 02, 2008

Don't Knock the Weather

Apparently it was presumptuous of Vino Girl to think that it would be sunny and warm in Sonoma in late April. Okay, it was sunny part of the time and rainy a good deal of the time. Warm it most definitely was not.

In fact, there was a very rare (since the 70s) frost in Sonoma just before Winemonkey and I arrived in town. The aberrant weather damaged many vines and potentially wiped out a significant amount of the crop for some producers. No one knows yet how it will play out at harvest time but April and May are troublesome months to experience frost because the vines are still so delicate.

The weather was in the 40s and 50s while we were in Sonoma (April 21st – 24th) and we prepared to taste wines outside by sporting layer upon layer of any reasonably warm clothing we could find. As of this week the temperature is in the 70s and 80s and the sun has taken back its rightful place in the wine country sky. We can only hope that vine growth remains vigorous into May and June.

As Winemonkey and I traveled south to the Central Coast on April 24th and 25th – first stop Paso Robles – the weather turned much warmer without a cloud in the sky. The nights were nice and cool, giving the vines their necessary rest, and it seemed the perfect April temperature for the shoots to grow.

We continued south on April 26th and 27th and as we drove down the coast the temperature pushed up and up. By the time we arrived in Santa Maria in Santa Barbara county the mercury had reached 95 degrees! Just looking around it was like the desert down there. We could hardly believe anyone could make decent wine in this environment but, having tasted some great wines from the region, we soldiered on. The most interesting thing was watching the car's outside temperature gauge go from 65 to 90 degrees and back again as we zigzagged closer and then further away from the Pacific coast.

Although most wine people are very familiar with how bodies of water and altitude and other geographic factors influence climate, it was fascinating to see the temperature change so drastically from day to day, region to region, and microclimate to microclimate.

We went from hooded sweatshirts, turtleneck sweaters, and jeans to suntan lotion, short sleeves, and shorts in just one week without ever really having the perfect accoutrement to match the weather. Just think how the grapes must feel!